Executive Chef David Greenhill
There is something enormously satisfying about providing people with the total experience a restaurant can deliver: hospitality, comfort, sustenance, conviviality, companionship and entertainment—all under one roof.
At Four Seasons Hotel Guangzhou, we have 344 rooms, six food and beverage outlets and extensive banquet facilities, so it’s a task and a half to do all that. But that’s what I strive for, and my team shares the same goal. I have to emphasize that it is my team who actually makes this happen; I’m just there for support and guidance.
As you can imagine, there are many challenges along the way to opening a culinary operation of this size. Just the task of sourcing consistent local suppliers that have the right import licenses in place is formidable. These are the things I took for granted living in Europe.
Recruitment was, and still is, tough in the ever-changing world of Guangzhou, China’s third-largest city. With many hotels opening up so quickly here, the lack of experience is frustrating. To this day, we have yet to promote someone into a position. We usually start a staff person at a level below their former position, and I think they appreciate the fact that they’re not in over their head.
This is a far cry from my first interview here almost two years ago, when a middle-aged man with a wonderful smile approached me. I asked about his experience. In response, he produced a laminated photo of a barbecued goat. He said he’d been cooking goats this way for 25 years, but by the looks of the photo, I was certain it was likely his first one. Then I asked the obvious question: “What else can you cook?”
“Nothing… just goat,” he said.
To my relief, the candidates that followed were a marked improvement!
After growing up in England, managing six restaurants in China can be a trial. Two-way communication has its challenges and that’s not helped by the fact that my Chinese is limited. No matter how much you try, things do get lost in translation. I remember one day, my sous chef Stefano walked into his office, and to his bewilderment, found a coffeemaker on his desk. He racked his brain to figure out why… then it dawned on him that he’d asked one of the chefs from our Kumoi restaurant to drop off his note pad that he’d left by the coffeemaker.
Four Seasons Hotel Guangzhou: The Restaurants and Chefs
This hotel is absolutely amazing! The architecture is mind-boggling and the interior design stunning; so the food has a lot to live up to. This is where the amazing talents of certain individuals prevail. Without these key players, my quest would be unachievable. Here’s a bit about them and the restaurants they run.
Yu Yue Heen, Chinese Executive Chef Law Yiu Choi
This original restaurant, including its eight private dining rooms, on the 71st floor has an extensive view of the city. It has a modern, fresh feel with ornate art pieces that reflect the luxury and wealth of China. Most importantly, it is a place of comfort and ease—a place to gather and enjoy the best Guangzhou has to offer. The restaurant showcases the best of Chef Law’s Cantonese cuisine. Chef Law has vast experience in Chinese cooking and was one of the first Chinese Chefs to be accredited in the Chaine de Rotisseurs. Needless to say, I rest easy knowing that Executive Chef Law is in the kitchen.
Kumoi, Chef Kazumi Sawada
This restaurant takes Japanese dining to a new level. The menu is inspired by both tradition and the modern world, designed with an innovative culinary approach and the quest to source the very best local and international produce. Kumoi gives diners a chance to experience the informal style of Japanese “izakaya” style, where everyone at the table usually shares food items. The Kumoi menu focuses on fresh seafood and prime beef cuts. Guests get a multi-sensory experience and discover “Umami,” Japanese for “pleasant savoury taste.”
Imported from Tokyo, Chef Kazumi Sawada’s incredible talent is awe-inspiring; his attention to detail and commitment to excellence are tops. His calmness makes him a pleasure to work with. Believe me, a talented yet calm chef helming a busy kitchen makes us lucky to have him.
Caffe Mondo and the Atrium Lounge, Chef de Cuisine Paddy Chan
This all-day-dining restaurant raises Italian regional cuisine (including pizza) to heights Guangzhou has never seen. The Pizza Bar offers an array of traditional pies, plus an antipasti bar that encourages sharing and complements the relaxed, family-friendly atmosphere. We make pasta in-house and already have an established regular following.
The Atrium Lounge
Relaxed but sophisticated, the lobby houses a spectacular centerpiece and an incredible atrium with a view of the 30 stories above, plus vistas of Guangzhou, the city lights and the Pearl River delta. This is a space big enough to fit St. Paul’s Cathedral! It’s an all-day restaurant with light fare and afternoon tea. Inspired by the freshest ingredients, the menu takes an updated twist on the classics.
Chef de Cuisine Paddy Chan is a 15-year veteran of Four Seasons whose reputation precedes him. A powerhouse of energy and good will makes him a true ambassador to our profession. He has been instrumental in the smooth opening; and that helps us sleep well at night.
Catch, Tian Bar, Chef Yvan Collett
This specialty restaurant serves prime fish and crustaceans, the very best of local produce and seafood flown directly from international waters. The menu is underpinned by prime cuts of meat and poultry.
This place is colourful, fun and chic. Tian Bar boasts modern and vibrant interior design with a club feel: blue-floral upholstered lounge chairs, transparent bar stools, tall, blown-glass floor lamps, pendant ceiling lights with black glass lamp shades and full-fabric floor lamps. We’re putting heavy emphasis on champagne, trendy cocktails and superb wines—by the glass and bottle. The menu focuses on small tasting plates, tapas style and modern bar food. Chef Yvan Collett, a French national who has lived in China for more than 10 years, brings his love of all things food to our signature restaurant and bar. His knowledge of local tastes and expectations has been integral to how we will position ourselves in the market.
Headed by Pastry Chef Jean-Luc Vasseur, the pastry kitchen supplies the entire hotel’s dining venues, including banquets. It’s amazing to see his small factory in operation. Manned 24 hours, it produces everything in-house: from bagels to brioche, panini to Panna cotta. A well-oiled machine and fantastic creativity ensure a great pedigree in all of our sweets and baked goods.
My Right Hand
Sous Chef Stefano Andreoli hails from Italy. His drive and abilities are outstanding. A true chef in every sense of the word, his guidance, friendship and support have been flawless.
One Englishman, one Italian, one Chinese, one Japanese, two Frenchmen and a Malaysian (you can only imagine the jokes and the differences of opinion) have come together to teach, support and guide 220 Chinese chefs and stewards operating six restaurants and a huge banquet operation. No feat with so many moving targets can be perfect, of course, and getting things right 100 percent all of the time is nearly impossible. But with 220 aspiring, dedicated, passionate and willing staff, almost anything is possible. I stand on the shoulders of giants. —Executive Chef David Greenhill
Executive Chef David Greenhill has spent 20 years preparing for what seems his ultimate posting in Guangzhou, where he fills 842 seats. He traces the start of his culinary career to a fateful decision made as a student in England and from there, began climbing the ladder at renowned restaurants across England as well as to Tokyo and Sydney. While in Australia, he helped fashion the Sydney Opera House’s culinary packages for the XXVII Olympiad and launched a successful condiment line in conjunction with a local television personality.